Wednesday, March 7, 2012

Muslin Critique (Round One)

I sewed up my first muslin, and for the most part, I'm super happy!! There are a few areas I need to address, listed below:

  1. Front and side view of legs
    1. My left thigh is a full 1/2" bigger (two inches down from crotch line) than the left
    2. My right out seam is a full 1/4" shorter than the left
    3. I feel like there is a tight pull right below the largest bulge on the left thigh, not as much so on the right, but still a tiny bit
  2.  Waist
    1. Thus far, perfect!
    2. Was I supposed to add the 5/8" seam allowance at the top? It created excess fabric (since I chose to not add a waistband), but I still feel super pleased!!
  3. Rear View
    1. For what I've been blessed with, I think it looks great! The back *definitely* looks better than the front. 
Pants Conclusion:
  • I need to make two separate front/back leg patterns (four pant patterns total), to accommodate separate height and thigh issues. 
  • I think the "pull" right below the bulge is due to the different height of my legs, and larger left thigh. I will re-align with master pattern and correct these situations, then true-up and hopefully that will take care of the issue.  
  • With the back view looking so much better than the front, I hope that those changes will correct the front to look as well-fitted
  • I don't love the accentuated view of my front thigh, from the side view---I think it's because I tucked in the high hip, since my hip hip is so narrow
  • I've realized that though my hips are bigger in the back than front (big bootie), my thighs are equal front/back, which means I need to re-align that part of the pattern, as well
  • I *really* dont' like the tapered look on the legs---but, I want to like it, so I think it may have to do with the unbalanced thighs??
Ideally, I'd like to have the pants GRACE my figure, not be so clingy and revealing. In other words--how can I look skinnier than I really am? :)

1 comment:

Glenda said...

Thanks so much for posting your comments about your first experiences with the SFD Pants pattern. have done an excellent job of analyzing your figure and drawing off your SFD Pants pattern. From what I observe, here are my recommendations.

Since you've commented you want more ease, it's easy to say to go up one measurement dot. However, a better test would be to re-measure using the tips from this article. - You may be happier with a larger low hip measurement from when you're sitting. As you've commented, it is so easy to re-draw your pattern, that it would take you no time at all to test this.

Additionally, I HIGHLY recommend that you attach the waist band. I know you are saying the waist fits perfectly, but the real test is once you get the waistband sewn in place.

As for your thighs, please look at the Pants Instruction Book - page 14 - for the Heavy Thigh tune-up suggestion. You may (or may not) need this once you've re-measured using your 'sitting' hip circumference.

You can make the leg width any width you want. Some ladies find the width of the pattern leg too wide. You on the other hand think it's too narrow. This is all personal preference and what looks best on your body. See page 17 for changing the leg width as you desire.

And yes, since one side of your body/hips is fuller than the other, you would likely be best served with a right and left side pattern. See page 15 #12 for the asymmetrical tune-up. Make sure you make the length changes from the waist level. The hip can be widened out on that particular side. You need to give your left hip a little more space/shape, but this may all come naturally as you re-measure while sitting.

You are really well on your way to excellent fitting pants. The back does look good though a little tight. Again, the re-measuring is going to help this. And when you get the asymmetry dealt with, I'm sure the front will hang beautifully to fit your body.

Another thing that will affect the final look, is putting the hem up. Even if you just baste it, this will make a difference to the total appearance, as will pressing in the front and back leg creases.

You've done a great job. Please let me know as you proceed with these few changes.